1,651 results match your criteria International Journal of Cosmetic Science [Journal]


Ageing profiles of Caucasian and Chinese cohorts - focus on hands skin.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb 14. Epub 2019 Feb 14.

Oriflame Skin Research Institute, Oriflame Cosmetics AB, Stockholm, Sweden.

Objective: In spite of hand care being a dynamic segment of skin care, hands skin physiology has been receiving little attention in comparison to facial skin. In the present study, we aimed at gathering a comprehensive set of skin data from the dorsal part of the hand to study age related-changes in two ethnic groups (Caucasian and Chinese).

Methods: Skin topographic, skin colour/colour heterogeneities, skin chromophores and skin biophysical measurements of 116 Caucasian and Chinese female volunteers aged 30-65 years old were collected in Ireland and in China as part of a cross-sectional study. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12514DOI Listing
February 2019

UV radiation on scalp skin surface induces scalp hair follicle damage ex vivo and is alleviated by the topical treatment with caffeine.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb 11. Epub 2019 Feb 11.

Monasterium Laboratory GmbH, Muenster, Germany.

Objectives: While the effect of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on human skin has been extensively studied, very little is known on how UVR impacts on hair follicle (HF) homeostasis. Here, we investigated how solar spectrum UVR that hits the human skin surface impacts on HF biology, and whether any detrimental effects can be mitigated by a widely used cosmetic and nutraceutical ingredient, caffeine.

Methods: Human scalp skin with terminal HFs was irradiated transepidermally ex vivo using either 10 J/cm UVA (340-440 nm) + 20 mJ/cm UVB (290-320 nm) (low dose) or 50 J/cm UVA + 50 mJ/cm UVB (high dose) and organ-cultured under serum-free conditions for 1 or 3 days. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12521DOI Listing
February 2019
3 Reads

Olive oil inhibits aging signs induced by chronic stress in ex vivo human skin via inhibition of the extracellular signal-related kinase 1/2 and c-JUN pathways.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb 10. Epub 2019 Feb 10.

Laboratory of Tissue Repair, Department of Histology and Embryology, State University of Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, RJ, 20950-003, Brazil.

Objective: Chronic stress-induced oxidative damage and protease synthesis cause a loss of extracellular matrix components promoting human skin aging. The administration of antioxidant compounds, such as those observed in olive oil, may attenuate stress-induced aging signs in human skin. Thus, the aim of this study was to investigate the effect of olive oil administration in ex vivo stressed human skin. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12520DOI Listing
February 2019

Validation of a predictive method for sunscreen formula evaluation using gene expression analysis in a Chinese reconstructed full-thickness skin model.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb 5. Epub 2019 Feb 5.

L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 550 Jin Yu Road, Pudong, Shanghai, P.R. China.

Objective: The present study aimed to establish a predictive in vitro method for assessing the photoprotective properties of sunscreens using a reconstructed full-thickness skin model.

Materials And Methods: A full-thickness skin model reconstructed with human fibroblasts and keratinocytes isolated from Chinese skin was exposed to daily UV radiation (DUVR). We examined the transcriptomic response, identifying genes for which expression was modulated by DUVR in a dose-dependent manner. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12518DOI Listing
February 2019
1 Read

Electron microscopy and tomography reveal that sodium 2-naphthalene sulfonate incorporated into perming solutions swells and tilts trichocyte intermediate filaments causing straightening of curly Japanese human hair.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb 5. Epub 2019 Feb 5.

Hair Care Products Research Laboratories, Kao Corporation, 2-1-3, Bunka, Sumida, Tokyo, 131-8501, Japan.

Objective: A new hair-care process has been specifically developed for the straightening of curved Japanese woman's hair [1]. The process included sodium 2-naphthalene sulfonate (SNS) in the reduction and oxidation steps of a conventional perming process. Our objective was to develop an understanding of how this process caused hair straightening by measuring the changes to morphology and ultrastructure between, untreated, conventionally permed and SNS permed hair. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12517DOI Listing
February 2019

An efficient method to determine the Hydrophile-lipophile Balance of surfactants using the phase inversion temperature deviation of C E /n-octane/water emulsions.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Jan 28. Epub 2019 Jan 28.

Gattefossé SAS, 36 chemin de Genas 69804, Saint-Priest, France.

Objective: The aim of this study was to develop a fast and an efficient method to determine the Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB) number of cosmetic and pharmaceutics surfactants.

Methods: This method is based on the deviation of the phase inversion temperature induced by the addition of the test compound, with respect to the phase inversion temperature of a reference system, which includes an ethoxylated surfactant. This method is called PIT-deviation. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12516DOI Listing
January 2019

Exploring the possibility of predicting long-term oxidative stability in prototype skincare formulations using various lipid oxidation-initiators.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Jan 21. Epub 2019 Jan 21.

Technical University of Denmark, National FOOD Institute, Kemitorvet, Bygning, 202, Kgs. Lyngby, Denmark, 2800.

Objective: The purpose of this study was to identify an effective lipid oxidation initiator which could predict, within one month, the long-term oxidative stability of a prototype skincare formulation. The main purpose is to find a potential initiator not to assess oxidation stability of the formulations.

Methods: FOUR INITIATORS (BELOW) WERE EXAMINED IN THREE STEPS: 1. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12515DOI Listing
January 2019

A new procedure, free from human assessment, that automatically grades some facial skin structural signs. Comparison with assessments by experts, using referential atlases of skin aging.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Jan 21. Epub 2019 Jan 21.

ModiFace - A L'Oréal Group Company, Toronto, Canada.

Objective: To develop an automatic system that grades the severity of facial signs through "selfies" pictures taken by women of different ages and ethnics.

Methods: 1140 women from three ethnics (African-American, Asian, Caucasian), of different ages (18-80 years old), took "selfies" by high resolution smartphones cameras under different conditions of lighting or facial expressions. A dedicated software, was developed, based on a Convolutional Neural Network (CNN) that integrates training data from referential Skin Aging Atlases. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12512DOI Listing
January 2019
1 Read

Mass spectrometry-based proteomics reveals the distinct nature of the skin proteomes of photoaged compared to intrinsically aged skin.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Jan 20. Epub 2019 Jan 20.

Centre for Dermatology Research, Division of Musculoskeletal & Dermatological Sciences, School of Biological Sciences, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, University of Manchester, and Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, UK.

Objective: With increasing age skin is subject to alterations in its organisation, which impacts on its function as well as having clinical consequences. Proteomics is a useful tool for non-targeted, semi-quantitative simultaneous investigation of high numbers of proteins. In the current study we utilise proteomics to characterise and contrast age-associated differences in photoexposed and photoprotected skin, with a focus on the epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction and papillary dermis. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12513
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12513DOI Listing
January 2019
4 Reads

Mechanisms of anionic surfactant penetration into human skin: Investigating monomer, micelle, and submicellar aggregate penetration theories.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Jan 12. Epub 2019 Jan 12.

James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy, University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, Ohio, 45267-0004, USA.

Objective: Once penetrated into the stratum corneum, anionic surfactants bind to and denature stratum corneum proteins as well as intercalate into and extract intercellular lipids. With repeated exposures, this leads to skin dryness and irritation, compromising barrier function and skin health. The mechanisms of anionic surfactant penetration into the skin, however, are still widely debated. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12511
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12511DOI Listing
January 2019
15 Reads

Editorial.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec;40(6):535

International Journal of Cosmetic Science.

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12508DOI Listing
December 2018

Exploring some characteristics (density, anagen ratio, growth rate) of human body hairs. Variations with skin sites, gender and ethnics.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec 23. Epub 2018 Dec 23.

L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 11-13 Rue Dora Maar, 93400, Saint-Ouen, France.

Objective: To determine, in vivo, the density, growth rate and percentage of anagen phase follicles of body hairs present on five different skin sites (axilla, cheek, chin, leg, upper-lip) of women and men from four different ethnics (African, Caucasian, Chinese, North African). The same characteristics of terminal hairs from the nape of all subjects were recorded as references.

Methods: The photo-trichogram technique was used on all skin sites (of different sizes) at variable times (2 or 3 days) post shaving of small skin areas (a few cm ). Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12510DOI Listing
December 2018
6 Reads

Physical characterization of the hair of Mexican women.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec 23. Epub 2018 Dec 23.

L'Oréal, Research & Innovation, Clark, NJ, USA.

Hairs collected from 257 Mexican women, residing in Mexico City, were characterized by instrumental measurements for comparison to more-commonly reported Caucasian, Asian and African hairs. Subjects were subdivided into five age groups and their hairs were characterized by fibre dimension, shape and tensile strength. Results show that Mexican hair appears to be intermediate of Asian and Caucasian hair in diameter and cross-sectional ellipticity. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12509DOI Listing
December 2018

A highly resistant structure between the cuticle and the cortex of human hair. II. - CARB, a penetration barrier.

Authors:
Toshie Takahashi

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec 14. Epub 2018 Dec 14.

Development Research, Kao Corporation, 2-1-3, Bunka, Sumida-ku, Tokyo, 131-8501, Japan.

Objective: We previously reported that a chemically resistant structure is present at the interface between the cuticle and the cortex of human hair. The goal of this study was to identify the position of that structure and to clarify its barrier ability.

Methods: Untreated, partially and completely decuticled hair fibers were characterized. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12507DOI Listing
December 2018
1.451 Impact Factor

Assessing changes in some facial signs of fatigue in Chinese women, induced by a single working day.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Nov 29. Epub 2018 Nov 29.

Eurosyn, Villebon-sur-Yvette, France.

Background: The impacts of physical fatigue upon some facial signs, induced by a whole day work, have been previously described on Caucasian women. This study aimed at assessing those possibly experienced by Chinese working women under comparable conditions.

Material And Methods: Standard photographs of 60 Chinese women working in the same company (aged 20-40 years) were taken at three occasions during their working day (just before, at 4 and 8 h). Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12506DOI Listing
November 2018
1 Read

Inhibitory effects of Sanguisorba officinalis root extract on HYBID (KIAA1199)-mediated hyaluronan degradation and skin wrinkling.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Nov 28. Epub 2018 Nov 28.

Biological Science Research, Kao Corporation, 3-28, 5-chome, Kotobuki-cho, Odawara-shi, Kanagawa, 250-0002, Japan.

Objectives: Hyaluronan (HA), an important constituent of extracellular matrix in the skin, has many biological activities such as hydration that contributes to firmness and bounciness of the skin. We have reported that reduction in HA in the papillary dermis and over-expression of HYBID (HYaluronan Binding protein Involved in hyaluronan Depolymerization, alias KIAA1199 or CEMIP), a key molecule for HA degradation in skin fibroblasts, are implicated in facial skin wrinkling in Japanese and Caucasian women. However, little or no information is available for substances which inhibit the HYBID-mediated HA degradation. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12505DOI Listing
November 2018
1 Read

3D-printed Franz type diffusion cells.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec;40(6):604-609

UCL School of Pharmacy, 29-39 Brunswick Square, London, WC1N 1AX, UK.

Objective: Franz cells are routinely used to measure in vitro skin permeation of actives and must be inert to the permeant under study. The aim of the present work was to develop and manufacture transparent Franz-type diffusion cells using 3D printing. Printouts were then tested using a range of model active compounds. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12504DOI Listing
December 2018
7 Reads

Sex-related differences in response to zinc pyrithione shampoo vs. non-anti-dandruff shampoo.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec;40(6):583-588

Unilever Research and Development Centre Shanghai, 66 LinXin Road, Changning District, 200335, Shanghai, China.

Objective: Sex-related differences in skin properties may be expected to impact dandruff formation and treatment. A meta-analysis approach was undertaken to investigate potential differences between males and females in response to zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) treatment vs. non-anti-dandruff (AD) shampoo. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12501
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12501DOI Listing
December 2018
16 Reads

Spectroscopy as a tool to evaluate hair damage and protection.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec 11;40(6):596-603. Epub 2018 Dec 11.

Departamento de Bioquímica, Instituto de Química - Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, Brasil.

Objective: Methods that can be used to analyse hair damage and to support a claim of hair protection are important for the cosmetic industry. There are many approaches available, but they are usually laborious and expensive. The researchers propose a simple fluorescence method that is based upon the emissive properties of damaged hair. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12503
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12503DOI Listing
December 2018
7 Reads

Photoprotection against visible light-induced pigmentation.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec;40(6):589-595

Avon Products, Inc., Suffern, New York, USA.

Objective: This paper presents in vivo an in vitro studies demonstrating the induction of pigmentation in human skin by visible light which can be blocked by using formulation containing the correct amount of yellow iron oxide (YIO).

Methods: An in vitro absorption method was developed to determine the protection provided by a test formulation containing 4.5% YIO using an IPD UVA-VIS action spectrum. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12502
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12502DOI Listing
December 2018
12 Reads

Effect of zein additive on perfume evaporation.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec;40(6):575-582

Département de Biologie, Faculté des Sciences et Techniques, Université de Rouen Normandie, Mont-Saint-Aignan, France.

Objective: Zein is known to have filmogen properties. We wanted to show if a zein film containing eugenol (eugenol as model) would retain the fragrances, slow their evaporation and therefore produce a long-lasting perception of perfume.

Methods: We added corn zein to eugenol in a hydro-alcoholic solution to form a film in vitro and at the surface of the human skin. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12500
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12500DOI Listing
December 2018
9 Reads

Cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic lamellar cream formulation on barrier function or the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in randomised proof-of-concept clinical studies.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Nov 10. Epub 2018 Nov 10.

proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research, Kiebitzweg 2, 22869, Schenefeld/Hamburg, Germany.

Objective: Two studies were designed to evaluate the potential cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic, niacinamide-containing moisturising cream for the first time in humans.

Methods: In both studies, healthy women were randomised to use two treatments, one for the left side of the body and one for the right, from three options: the test cream, a positive control or no treatment (use of standard cleanser only). Treatments were applied twice daily for 4 weeks to the face and forearms (Study 1) or the face only (Study 2). Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12499
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12499DOI Listing
November 2018
11 Reads

Influence of the emollient on emulsions containing lamellar liquid crystals: from molecular organization towards applicative properties.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec 29;40(6):565-574. Epub 2018 Nov 29.

Normandie Univ, UNIHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, 76600, Le Havre, France.

Objective: The sensory perception of cosmetic emulsions is complex as it is governed by an important number of parameters like the choice of raw materials, their interactions, the structural organisation of the system, etc. The aim of the present work was to go further in the interpretation of the emollient-surfactant interactions, towards the emulsions applicative properties. For this purpose, two systems containing liquid crystals of the lamellar type were formulated, differing only in the selected emollient. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12498
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12498DOI Listing
December 2018
1 Read

"Green" UV-LED gel nail polishes from bio-based materials.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec 6;40(6):555-564. Epub 2018 Dec 6.

Coatings Research Institute, Eastern Michigan University, Ypsilanti, MI, USA.

Objective: Gel nail polishes represent an advanced class of nail polishes, with the ability to cure under ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and consequently demonstrate improved properties and greater durability compared to conventional nail polishes. Most gel nail polishes available today are based on petrochemical resources, making them unsustainable. Bio-based materials are excellent renewable resources, with high potential for meeting final-product performance, cost, and environmental needs. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12497
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12497DOI Listing
December 2018
4 Reads

Lipid organization in xerosis: the key of the problem?

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec 13;40(6):549-554. Epub 2018 Nov 13.

SILAB R&D Department, Brive, France.

Objective: Although xerosis is a common skin disorder among the population, there is no in vivo global study focusing on xerotic skin. Hence, the objective of this study was to characterize xerotic skin from the surface to the molecular scale with in vivo and non-invasive approaches.

Methods: For this purpose, 15 healthy volunteers with normal skin and 19 healthy volunteers with xerotic skin were selected by a dermatologist, thanks to a visual scorage. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12496DOI Listing
December 2018
1 Read

The physical and chemical disruption of human hair after bleaching - studies by transmission electron microscopy and redox proteomics.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec 19;40(6):536-548. Epub 2018 Nov 19.

Food & Bio-based Products, AgResearch, Lincoln Research Centre, Christchurch, New Zealand.

Objective: To understand the structural and chemical effects of cosmetic peroxide bleaching on human hair.

Methods: Human hair was progressively bleached using alkaline peroxide-persulphate treatment. Proteins lost through leaching were examined using amino acid analysis and mass spectrometric sequencing. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12495DOI Listing
December 2018
1 Read

Efficacy of an agonist of α-MSH, the palmitoyl tetrapeptide-20, in hair pigmentation.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct 8;40(5):516-524. Epub 2018 Oct 8.

ICSN, UPR2301 CNRS, 91198, Gif-sur-Yvette, France.

Objective: Hair greying (i.e., canities) is a component of chronological ageing and occurs regardless of gender or ethnicity. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12494DOI Listing
October 2018
3 Reads

Visualization of zinc pyrithione particles deposited on the scalp from a shampoo by tape-strip sampling and scanning electron microscopy/energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy measurement.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct;40(5):530-533

Analytical-Chemistry Group, Van 't Hoff Institute for Molecular Sciences, University of Amsterdam, Science Park 904, 1098 XH, Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

Objective: Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is widely used as an anti-fungal active in commercial anti-dandruff (AD) shampoos. The AD efficacy of ZnPT is highly dependent on the deposition of ZnPT particles onto the scalp during the process of shampoo application and rinse-off. Since ZnPT materials with different particle sizes and morphologies have different deposition behaviours, the measurement of the actual ZnPT deposition is critical to understand the AD performance delivered by different ZnPT shampoos. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12493
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12493DOI Listing
October 2018
2 Reads

Evaluating age-related changes of some facial signs among men of four different ethnic groups.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct;40(5):502-515

RB Consult, Bievres, France.

Background: The alterations of some facial characteristics, with age, in men of different ethnic groups are a scarcely studied topic.

Objective: To illustrate and grade, among men of four different ethnic descents (Asians, African-Americans, Caucasians, Indians), aged 18-80 year, the changes in the severity of some facial signs occurring with age.

Methods: Digital Photographs (full face, profile, 45°) of 1058 subjects were taken under standard conditions of lightning. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12492DOI Listing
October 2018
2 Reads

Reinforcement of barrier function - skin repair formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct;40(5):494-501

Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, University of Tuebingen, Tuebingen, Germany.

Objective: The aim of the study was to develop formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin in an attempt to repair defective barrier function.

Methods: Physiological cholesterol and linoleic acid were incorporated into basic cream and non-ionic cream to prepare skin repair formulations. Homogeneity and storage stability of the developed creams were examined by polarized light microscopy. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12491DOI Listing
October 2018
2 Reads

Defining and validating a Body Skin Discomfort Index (BSDI).

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct 4;40(5):488-493. Epub 2018 Oct 4.

L'Oréal Research & Innovation, 188 rue Paul Hochart, 94550, Chevilly La Rue, France.

Objective: To understand the drivers of body skin discomfort and to validate a new index to assess its severity. This index should be sensitive enough to capture changes in response to treatment.

Methods: Previous consumer studies suggested seven potential main dimensions behind skin discomfort. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12490
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12490DOI Listing
October 2018
19 Reads

Review of Hair Follicle Dermal Papilla cells as in vitro screening model for hair growth.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct 4;40(5):429-450. Epub 2018 Oct 4.

Cell Biology Lab, Dabur Research Foundation, 22, Site IV, Sahibabad, Ghaziabad, Uttar Pradesh, 201010, India.

Hair disorders such as hair loss (alopecia) and androgen dependent, excessive hair growth (hirsutism, hypertrichosis) may impact the social and psychological well-being of an individual. Recent advances in understanding the biology of hair have accelerated the research and development of novel therapeutic and cosmetic hair growth agents. Preclinical models aid in dermocosmetic efficacy testing and claim substantiation of hair growth modulators. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12489DOI Listing
October 2018
4 Reads
1.451 Impact Factor

A severe chronic outdoor urban pollution alters some facial aging signs in Chinese women. A tale of two cities.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct 8;40(5):467-481. Epub 2018 Oct 8.

Eurosyn, Villebon-sur-Yvette, France.

Background: The impact of a chronic outdoor urban pollution on skin aging-related facial signs is a poorly referenced topic.

Objective: To assess, through visual grading and referential photographic atlas, possible differences in some facial signs between Chinese women, of comparable ages, living in two close cities very differently exposed to urban pollution.

Methods: The faces of two cohorts of 204 Chinese women (2 × 102) of same age-groups (25-45 years), living in Baoding (a highly polluted city) and Dalian (a less polluted city), for at least 15 years, have been analyzed. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12487DOI Listing
October 2018

Mapping, in vivo, the uniformity of two skin properties alongside the human face by a 3D virtual approach.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct;40(5):482-487

L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Chevilly Larue, France.

Objective: To determine the homogeneity in the distribution of two cutaneous functions (hydration and elasticity) along the entire human face.

Material And Methods: The half faces (right or left, randomly chosen) of two groups of Caucasian women were measured on 24 different small sites (elasticity) and 41 others (hydration), by instruments of small-sized probes (Cutometer and Corneometer , respectively). Hydration of the face was recorded at different times (up to 24 h), post application of a highly hydrating product. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12488DOI Listing
October 2018
8 Reads

Measuring the frequency of consumer hair combing and magnitude of combing forces on individual hairs in a tress and the implications for product evaluation and claims substantiation.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct 1;40(5):461-466. Epub 2018 Oct 1.

Cider Solutions Ltd. Chilworth, Surrey, GU48RR, U.K.

Objectives: It is commonly assumed that, due to the long growth cycle of hair, multi-cycle combing, and strength and fatigue testing using thousands of cycles is relevant for product evaluation and claim substantiation. The objective was to assess the frequency and magnitude of combing forces on individual hairs against a hypothesis that fibres on a consumer's head rarely experience significant loads during routine combing.

Methods: Single fibres were removed from a tress, attached to a load cell and replaced in the tress. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12485DOI Listing
October 2018
2 Reads

Use of LC-MS analysis to elucidate by-products of niacinamide transformation following in vitro skin permeation studies.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct 8;40(5):525-529. Epub 2018 Oct 8.

UCL School of Pharmacy, 29-39 Brunswick Square, London, WC1N 1AX, UK.

Objective: To explore and elucidate the formation of niacinamide (NIA) by-products during in vitro skin permeation studies using liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis.

Methods: Porcine skin permeation studies of various NIA formulations were conducted using Franz diffusion cells for a period of 24 hours. NIA by-products were identified by LC, extracted and further qualitatively analysed by LC-MS. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12486DOI Listing
October 2018
1 Read

Keratin-based particles for protection and restoration of hair properties.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Aug 28;40(4):408-419. Epub 2018 Aug 28.

CEB-Centre of Biological Engineering, University of Minho, Campus of Gualtar, 4710-057, Braga, Portugal.

Objective: Human hair is an element with unquestionable relevance in society both for women and men. Therefore, it is of great importance to develop new cosmetic products for hair care capable to restore and improve hair's characteristics. Here, we explore the potential of keratin-based particles in the protection and recovery of hair mechanical properties and thermal stability. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12483DOI Listing
August 2018
1 Read

Predicting lipstick sensory properties with laboratory tests.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct 27;40(5):451-460. Epub 2018 Sep 27.

Lubrizol Advanced Materials, 9911 Brecksville Rd., Brecksville, OH, 44141, U.S.A.

Objective: Sensory perceptions and performance are important to the success of a lipstick formulation, but in vivo evaluation can be expensive and time-consuming. The goal of this work was to develop and use laboratory test methods to predict the sensory and performance properties of lipstick.

Methods: Twelve model lipstick formulations were prepared, in which only the emollient varied, resulting in a variety of sensory and performance properties. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12482DOI Listing
October 2018
40 Reads

An updated review of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin - New perspectives and evaluation for claims support.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Aug 24;40(4):348-355. Epub 2018 Aug 24.

Callaghan Consulting International, 22587, Hamburg, Germany.

With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to an informed understanding of ageing skin and its appendages, together with a plethora of targeted products to meet such needs. In recent years, increased legislative demands for quality evidential claims support have led not only to the development and validation of clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin, but also a clearer understanding of the skin ageing process-especially the impact of both its internal and external environments-as well as a tougher stance on clearly unjustifiable claims. Traditional testing methods used to research and evaluate anti-ageing products claim to employ sophisticated instruments. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12484
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12484DOI Listing
August 2018
16 Reads

A theoretical and experimental study of the temporal reduction in UV protection provided by a facial day cream.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Aug 31;40(4):401-407. Epub 2018 Aug 31.

Walgreens Boots Alliance, Thane Road, Nottingham, NG90 1BS, UK.

Objective: To investigate how the UV protection provided by a facial day cream reduces over the course of a day.

Methods: We developed a theoretical model using a Monte Carlo random sampling approach to estimate the variation in local thickness, and hence local effective SPF, at several different sites over the face. The input variables, which are labelled SPF, average application thickness, homogeneity of the product on the skin and the ability of the product to bind to the skin, allow examination of how these different factors affect the delivered photoprotection. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12480DOI Listing
August 2018
1 Read

Body odour aldehyde reduction by acetic acid bacterial extract including enzymes: alcohol dehydrogenase and aldehyde dehydrogenase.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Aug 20;40(4):425-428. Epub 2018 Aug 20.

Kewpie Co., 2-5-7 Sengawa-cho, Chofu-shi, Tokyo, 182-0002, Japan.

Objective: The major causes of unpleasant human body odour are aldehydes produced by axillary-resident bacteria. There are many methods of body odour prevention; however, they all carry risks of destroying indigenous dermal bacteria that are necessary for the maintenance of the normal physical function of the skin. Furthermore, some methods cannot directly reduce the concentrations of substances that cause body odour. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12473DOI Listing
August 2018
22 Reads

Crocin, a natural molecule with potentially beneficial effects against skin ageing.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Aug 9;40(4):388-400. Epub 2018 Aug 9.

L'Oréal R & I, Campus Charels Zviak-RIO, 9 rue Pierre Dreyfus, 92110, Clichy, France.

Objective: Oxidative stress and low-grade chronic inflammation stand out as key features of physiological skin ageing. The aim of this study was to examine in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) grown in vitro, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of crocin, a carotenoid glycoside responsible for the colour of saffron. Moreover, considering the newly emerging field of skin glycobiology and the presence of two gentiobiosyl moieties in crocin, the effect of crocin on NHEK glycosylation pathways was for the first time investigated. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12472DOI Listing
August 2018
9 Reads

Vichy Thermal Spring Water (VTSW), a cosmetic ingredient of potential interest in the frame of skin ageing exposome: an in vitro study.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Aug 15;40(4):377-387. Epub 2018 Aug 15.

Clichy, France.

Objective: To study the effects of the very high minerality Vichy Thermal Spring Water (VTSW) on human keratinocytes grown in vitro.

Methods: The effect of VTSW was monitored by full genome transcriptomic technology and immunofluorescence microscopy.

Results: In the presence of 50% VTSW, the expression of a number of skin homoeostasis-related genes is increased, specifically with respect to dermal-epidermal junction, epidermal cohesion and communication, keratinocyte proliferation-differentiation balance, antioxidant mechanisms and DNA repair. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12470
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12470DOI Listing
August 2018
3 Reads

In vitro skin penetration of petrolatum and soybean oil and effects of glyceryl monooleate.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Aug 15;40(4):367-376. Epub 2018 Aug 15.

Division of Pharmaceutical Sciences, James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy, University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, OH, 45267, USA.

Objectives: Petrolatum and soybean oil are common ingredients incorporated in topical skin formulations for skin protection and moisturization. However, the stratum corneum (SC) penetration kinetics of these two cosmetic ingredients has not been systematically studied. Glyceryl monooleate (GlyMOle) has been shown to enhance skin penetration of various compounds. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12469DOI Listing
August 2018
2 Reads

Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Aug 24;40(4):356-366. Epub 2018 Aug 24.

Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Biochemistry, Jagiellonian University Medical College, Medyczna 9, Kraków, Poland.

Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring and synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12471DOI Listing
August 2018
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Exploring pathways for sustained melanogenesis in facial melasma: an immunofluorescence study.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Aug 25;40(4):420-424. Epub 2018 Jul 25.

Departamento de Dermatologia e Radioterapia, Av. Prof. Mário Rubens Guimarães Montenegro, SN Faculdade de Medicina da UNESP Campus, Universitário de Rubião, Jr.18618-687, Botucatu, SP, Brasil.

Background: The physiopathology of epidermal hypermelanization in melasma is not completely understood. Several cytokines and growth factors are increased in skin with melasma, nevertheless, nor the pathways involved in the increased αMSH expression have been adequately evaluated, nor a model for sustained focal melanogenesis is available.

Objective: To explore stimulatory pathways for epidermal pigmentation in facial melasma related to αMSH: those linked to ultraviolet radiation, oxidative stress, inflammation, neural crest pigmentation cell differentiation and antagonism of αMSH. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12468DOI Listing
August 2018
1 Read

Hair Color and Skin Color Together Influence Perceptions of Age, Health, and Attractiveness in Lightly-Pigmented, Young Women.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 May 17. Epub 2018 May 17.

HFC Prestige Service Germany GmbH, Darmstadt, Germany.

Objective: Research documents that even subtle changes in visible skin condition affect perceptions of age, health, and attractiveness. There is evidence that hair quality also affects the assessment of physical appearance, as variations in hair diameter, hair density, and hair style have systematic effects on perception. Here, we consider combined effects of hair color and skin color on the perception of female physical appearance. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12467DOI Listing

Intrinsic and extrinsic regulation of human skin melanogenesis and pigmentation.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Aug 19;40(4):328-347. Epub 2018 Jul 19.

Global Skin Research Center, Ashland, 655, route du Pin Montard, Sophia Antipolis, 06904, France.

In human skin, melanogenesis is a tightly regulated process. Indeed, several extracellular signals are transduced via dedicated signalling pathways and mostly converge to MITF, a transcription factor integrating upstream signalling and regulating downstream genes involved in the various inherent mechanisms modulating melanogenesis. The synthesis of melanin pigments occurs in melanocytes inside melanosomes where melanogenic enzymes (tyrosinase and related proteins) are addressed with the help of specific protein complexes. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12466DOI Listing
August 2018
3 Reads

Determination of fatty acid methyl esters in cosmetic castor oils by flow injection - electrospray ionization - high resolution mass spectrometry.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 May 9. Epub 2018 May 9.

Chemistry Department, Division of Natural and Exact Sciences, University of Guanajuato, L de Retana 5, 36000, Guanajuato, Mexico.

Objective: The goal of this work was to set up a high throughput procedure for the determination of fatty acid methyl esters (FAMEs) in cosmetic castor oils using flow injection - electrospray ionization - high resolution mass spectrometry, and to demonstrate the need of such analysis for the quality control purposes.

Methods: The sample aliquot was mixed with isooctane:chloroform (1:1) and submitted to transesterification; the obtained FAMEs were appropriately diluted using water:isopropanol:acetonitrile (20:50:30) with addition of sodium formate which served as an internal standard, lock mass calibrant and promoted the formation of sodium adducts during electrospray ionization (ESI). The principle of flow injection analysis (FIA) was applied for sample introduction to an ESI - quadrupole- time of flight mass spectrometer (ESI-QTOFMS). Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12465DOI Listing
May 2018
1 Read

Zinc-containing compounds for personal care applications.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Aug 15;40(4):319-327. Epub 2018 Aug 15.

Department of Cosmetic Raw Materials Chemistry, Medical University of Lodz, Muszynskiego 1, Lodz, 90-151, Poland.

It is well-known that zinc ions are widely used in cosmetic products. Their popularity is associated with the multifunctional profile of Zn , which is classified as an essential chemical element in the human body. This review examines numerous beneficial biological properties of zinc-containing compounds and classifies the compounds used in cosmetic products according to their functionality profile: antioxidant, sunscreen, anti-inflammatory, anti-pigmentation, anti-ageing, anti-acne, antimicrobial, anti-odour, cleansing or stabilizing activity. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12463DOI Listing
August 2018
9 Reads