1,664 results match your criteria International Journal of Cosmetic Science [Journal]


Deposition of Plant Lipids after Single Application of a Lip Care Product Determined by Confocal Raman Spectroscopy, Corneometry, and Transepidermal Water-Loss.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr 19. Epub 2019 Apr 19.

Research& Development and Regulatory Affairs, Kneipp GmbH, 97084, Würzburg, Germany.

Objective: Lip treatment products often incorporate oils and waxes in their formulations, and a desired outcome of their use is to prevent lip dryness and roughness as well as help to repair this condition. The objective of this study was to combine confocal Raman spectroscopy with skin capacitance (corneometry) and transepidermal water loss (closed chamber Aquaflux system) measurements, in the evaluation of the degree of moisturization and lip skin penetration of a fruit wax (Rhus vernicula peel cera) and natural oil-based (Cocos nucifera fruit oil and Olea europea oil) lip care product, following a single application.

Methods: The study was conducted on a total of 15 healthy female volunteers. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12533DOI Listing

Main features and applications of organogels in cosmetics.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr;41(2):109-117

Department of Pharmacy, School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, 580 Prof. Lineu Prestes Av., Bl. 15, 05508-900, São Paulo, SP, Brazil.

Cosmetic treatments aim at improving skin appearance through vehicles of good sensory properties. Those vehicles are mainly emulsions and gels designed to deliver safe and effective compounds to skin. Creams and serums are widely used to achieve these goals, but recently a new type of formulation known as organogels triggered scientific attention, particularly in the design of both topical and cosmetic formulations. Read More

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https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/ics.12519
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12519DOI Listing
April 2019
3 Reads

A preliminary study of an alternative method for evaluating skin sensitizing potential of chemicals.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr 16. Epub 2019 Apr 16.

Department of Biology and Biotechnology "Lazzaro Spallanzani", University of Pavia, Pavia, Italy.

The skin, being a barrier between the human body and the environment, is exposed to a series of exogenous chemicals and physical factors. Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) is one of the most common inflammatory skin diseases that occurs in the general population with a prevalence of 20% [1]. The inflammatory condition is induced by a single or multiple exposure to chemical substances, called haptens, which activate the innate immunity (irritative contact dermatitis) or both innate and acquired immunity (allergic contact dermatitis) [2]. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12530DOI Listing
April 2019
1 Read

12R-lipoxygenase activity is reduced in photodamaged facial stratum corneum. A novel activity assay indicates a key function in corneocyte maturation.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr 16. Epub 2019 Apr 16.

UCL School of Pharmacy, London, UK.

Background: During the late stage of keratinocyte differentiation corneocytes gain a strong protein-lipid structure: the corneocyte envelopes (CE), composed of the inner corneocyte protein envelope (CPE) and the outer corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE). The hydrophobicity of CEs depends on the covalent attachment of linoleoyl-acyl-ceramides by transglutaminases (TG). These ceramides are processed by a range of other enzymes, including 12R-lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), before the covalent attachment of the free ω-hydroxyceramides to the CPE surface to form the CLE. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12532DOI Listing

Photoaging-related skin changes in different age groups: a clinical evaluation by Biophysical and Imaging techniques.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr 15. Epub 2019 Apr 15.

School of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto, University of São Paulo, Ribeirão Preto, São Paulo, Brazil.

Objectives: In view of the lack of studies about the morphological and structural changes caused by solar radiation in young people, the aim of the present study was to evaluate the photoaging-related changes in the skin of different age groups by Biophysical and Imaging techniques.

Methods: Forty-four healthy female subjects were divided into two age groups: G1: 18-35 years old and G2: 40-60 years old. The skin of malar region of the face was evaluated in terms of mechanical properties, disorder in the pigmentation pattern, morphological and structural changes using the Cutometer , Colorimeter , Visioface and Dermascan C devices and Reflectance Confocal Microscopy - RCM (Vivascope ). Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12531DOI Listing

Bio-derived hydroxystearic acid ameliorates skin age spots and conspicuous pores.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr 7. Epub 2019 Apr 7.

DSM Nutritional Products Ltd., CH-4143, Kaiseraugst, Switzerland.

As we age, our skin develops visible signs of aging [1]. In contrast to other body organs, the skin as our first line of defense is constantly exposed to challenges from the environment. Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, and to some extent visible light, climate changes and pollution are the major external environmental contributory factors whereas psychological stress, fatigue and dietary habits are internal stress factors also contribute to the skin aging exposome [2]. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12529DOI Listing
April 2019
2 Reads

Conformation changes in human hair keratin observed using confocal Raman spectroscopy after active ingredient application.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr 4. Epub 2019 Apr 4.

EA 7506 Biospectroscopie Translationnelle (BioSpectT), Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne, 51 rue Cognac Jay, Reims, FR.

Objective: In hair care cosmetic products' evaluation, one commonly used method is to evaluate the hair appearance as a gold standard in order to determine the effect of an active ingredient on the final state of the hair via visual appreciation. Although other techniques have been proposed for a direct analysis of the hair fibres, they give only surface or structural information, without any accurate molecular information. A different approach based on confocal Raman spectroscopy has been proposed for tracking in situ the molecular change in the keratin directly in the human hair fibres. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12528DOI Listing
April 2019
3 Reads

Development of Predictive Regression Model for perceived Hair Breakage in Indian Consumers.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Mar 13. Epub 2019 Mar 13.

Marico R&D Center, 23-C, Mahal Industrial Estate, Mahakaali Caves Road, Andheri (E), Mumbai, 400 093, INDIA.

Objective: To predict consumer perceived hair breakage based on parameters from three distinct categories- 1) hair strand parameters- like curvature, stiffness and tensile strength indices; 2) hair matrix or bulk parameters- like smoothness, detangling, frizz & volume and; 3) biological factors like age, hair density.

Methods: Consumer relevant evaluation techniques were employed in a uniquely designed protocol to obtain real-life data from the consumers' head without impacting or damaging their hair. Hairs of 50 Indian female subjects in the age group of 20-40 years were characterized using various instrumental techniques for parameters mentioned above, apart from the hair breakage count. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12527DOI Listing
March 2019
4 Reads

Structure-function relationship between a natural cosmetic active ingredient and the olfactory receptor OR2AT4.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr 29;41(2):194-199. Epub 2019 Mar 29.

SILAB R&D Department, Brive, France.

Objective: Although the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 was described as involved in epidermal renewal, there is no data about a cosmetic active ingredient activating this receptor. The aim of this research work was thus to identify a natural molecule binding to this receptor in order to stimulate keratinocyte migration.

Methods: For this purpose, natural molecules were extracted from Cocos nucifera flour. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12526DOI Listing
April 2019
3 Reads

In vitro efficacy of antifungal agents alone and in shampoo formulation against dandruff-associated Malassezia spp. and Staphylococcus spp.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Mar 9. Epub 2019 Mar 9.

Department of Dermatology, University Hospital Zurich and Faculty of Medicine, University of Zurich, Zurich, Switzerland.

Objective: Dandruff is a complex skin condition characterized by unpleasant itching and flaking of the scalp. It is primarily attributed to the over colonization of Malassezia yeasts such as M. globosa and M. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12525DOI Listing
March 2019
1 Read

Potentially beneficial effects of rhamnose on skin aging: an in vitro and in vivo study.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Mar 7. Epub 2019 Mar 7.

L'Oréal Research and Innovation, L'Oréal, 1 avenue Eugène Schueller, 93360, Aulnay-sous-Bois, France.

Objective: Recent findings showed that skin aging preferentially affects human papillary dermal fibroblasts suggesting that the papillary dermis represents a critical zone altered by skin aging. Based on these findings, we investigated the potential anti-aging effect of Rhamnose.

Methods: We investigated the potential anti-aging effect of Rhamnose using in vitro reconstructed skin containing fibroblasts obtained either from young or old donors, and in vivo clinical investigation. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12523
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12523DOI Listing
March 2019
2 Reads

Localization, fate and interactions of Emilin-1 in human skin.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr 12;41(2):183-193. Epub 2019 Apr 12.

Laboratoires Clarins, 5 rue Ampère, 95300, Pontoise, France.

Objective: Emilin-1 is a versatile protein abundant in tissues where resilience and elastic recoil are prominent and interacting with components of the extracellular matrix. Still, little is known about Emilin-1 in the skin. Therefore, we investigated Emilin-1 in the skin, its localization, its fate upon ageing, its interactions with other proteins and the effect of its knockdown. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12524DOI Listing
April 2019
1 Read

Stratum corneum or stratum ecologica?

Authors:
J M Crowther

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr;41(2):200-201

JMC Scientific Consulting Ltd, Egham, Surrey, TW20 8LL, UK.

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12522DOI Listing

Ageing profiles of Caucasian and Chinese cohorts - focus on hands skin.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb 14;41(1):79-88. Epub 2019 Feb 14.

Oriflame Skin Research Institute, Oriflame Cosmetics AB, Stockholm, Sweden.

Objective: In spite of hand care being a dynamic segment of skin care, hands skin physiology has been receiving little attention in comparison to facial skin. In the present study, we aimed at gathering a comprehensive set of skin data from the dorsal part of the hand to study age related-changes in two ethnic groups (Caucasian and Chinese).

Methods: Skin topographic, skin colour/colour heterogeneities, skin chromophores and skin biophysical measurements of 116 Caucasian and Chinese female volunteers aged 30-65 years old were collected in Ireland and in China as part of a cross-sectional study. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12514
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12514DOI Listing
February 2019
4 Reads

Transepidermal UV radiation of scalp skin ex vivo induces hair follicle damage that is alleviated by the topical treatment with caffeine.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr;41(2):164-182

Monasterium Laboratory GmbH, Muenster, Germany.

Objectives: Although the effect of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on human skin has been extensively studied, very little is known on how UVR impacts on hair follicle (HF) homeostasis. Here, we investigated how solar spectrum UVR that hits the human skin surface impacts on HF biology, and whether any detrimental effects can be mitigated by a widely used cosmetic and nutraceutical ingredient, caffeine.

Methods: Human scalp skin with terminal HFs was irradiated transepidermally ex vivo using either 10 J/cm UVA (340-440 nm) + 20 mJ/cm UVB (290-320 nm) (low dose) or 50 J/cm UVA + 50 mJ/cm UVB (high dose) and organ-cultured under serum-free conditions for 1 or 3 days. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12521DOI Listing
April 2019
8 Reads

Olive oil inhibits ageing signs induced by chronic stress in ex vivo human skin via inhibition of extracellular-signal-related kinase 1/2 and c-JUN pathways.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr 6;41(2):156-163. Epub 2019 Mar 6.

Laboratory of Tissue Repair, Department of Histology and Embryology, State University of Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, RJ, 20950-003, Brazil.

Objective: Chronic stress-induced oxidative damage and protease synthesis cause a loss of extracellular matrix components promoting human skin ageing. The administration of antioxidant compounds, such as those observed in olive oil, may attenuate stress-induced ageing signs in human skin. Thus, the aim of this study was to investigate the effect of olive oil administration in ex vivo stressed human skin. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12520DOI Listing

Validation of a predictive method for sunscreen formula evaluation using gene expression analysis in a Chinese reconstructed full-thickness skin model.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr 1;41(2):147-155. Epub 2019 Apr 1.

L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 550 Jin Yu Road, Pudong, Shanghai, P.R. China.

Objective: This study aimed to establish a predictive in vitro method for assessing the photoprotective properties of sunscreens using a reconstructed full-thickness skin model.

Materials And Methods: A full-thickness skin model reconstructed with human fibroblasts and keratinocytes isolated from Chinese skin was exposed to daily UV radiation (DUVR). We examined the transcriptomic response, identifying genes for which expression was modulated by DUVR in a dose-dependent manner. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12518DOI Listing
April 2019
6 Reads

Electron microscopy and tomography reveal that sodium 2-naphthalene sulfonate incorporated into perming solutions swells and tilts trichocyte intermediate filaments causing straightening of curly Japanese human hair.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr;41(2):132-146

Hair Care Products Research Laboratories, Kao Corporation, 2-1-3, Bunka, Sumida, Tokyo, 131-8501, Japan.

Objective: A new hair-care process has been specifically developed for the straightening of curved Japanese woman's hair . The process included sodium 2-naphthalene sulfonate (SNS) in the reduction and oxidation steps of a conventional perming process. Our objective was to develop an understanding of how this process caused hair straightening by measuring the changes to morphology and ultrastructure between untreated, conventionally permed and SNS permed hair. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12517DOI Listing
April 2019
1 Read

An efficient method to determine the Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance of surfactants using the phase inversion temperature deviation of C E /n-octane/water emulsions.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr 7;41(2):99-108. Epub 2019 Mar 7.

Gattefossé SAS, 36 chemin de Genas, 69804, Saint-Priest, France.

Objective: The aim of this study was to develop a fast and an efficient method to determine the Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB) number of cosmetic and pharmaceutics surfactants.

Methods: This method is based on the deviation of the phase inversion temperature induced by the addition of the test compound, with respect to the phase inversion temperature of a reference system, which includes an ethoxylated surfactant. This method is called PIT-deviation. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12516DOI Listing
April 2019
1 Read

Exploring the possibility of predicting long-term oxidative stability in prototype skincare formulations using various lipid oxidation initiators.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb;41(1):89-98

National FOOD Institute, Technical University of Denmark, Kgs. Lyngby, Denmark.

Objective: The purpose of this study was to identify an effective lipid oxidation initiator which could predict, within 1 month, the long-term oxidative stability of a prototype skincare formulation. The main purpose was to find a potential initiator not to assess oxidation stability of the formulations.

Methods: Four initiators (below) were examined in three steps: Reaction kinetics using a Clark electrode (Oxygraph); Effect of adding an initiator on the product's physical and oxidative stability in prototype skincare formulations by visual observation, peroxide value and headspace GC-MS determination of volatile oxidation products; and Ability to differentiate unstable vs. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12515DOI Listing
February 2019
1 Read

A new procedure, free from human assessment that automatically grades some facial skin structural signs. Comparison with assessments by experts, using referential atlases of skin ageing.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb;41(1):67-78

ModiFace - A L'Oréal Group Company, Toronto, Canada.

Objective: To develop an automatic system that grades the severity of facial signs through 'selfies' pictures taken by women of different ages and ethnics.

Methods: 1140 women from three ethnics (African-American, Asian, Caucasian), of different ages (18-80 years old), took 'selfies' by high resolution smartphones cameras under different conditions of lighting or facial expressions. A dedicated software, was developed, based on a Convolutional Neural Network (CNN) that integrates training data from referential Skin Aging Atlases. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12512DOI Listing
February 2019
2 Reads

Mass spectrometry-based proteomics reveals the distinct nature of the skin proteomes of photoaged compared to intrinsically aged skin.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr 8;41(2):118-131. Epub 2019 Apr 8.

Centre for Dermatology Research, Division of Musculoskeletal & Dermatological Sciences, School of Biological Sciences, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, University of Manchester, and Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester, UK.

Objective: With increasing age, skin is subject to alterations in its organization, which impact on its function as well as having clinical consequences. Proteomics is a useful tool for non-targeted, semi-quantitative simultaneous investigation of high numbers of proteins. In the current study, we utilize proteomics to characterize and contrast age-associated differences in photoexposed and photoprotected skin, with a focus on the epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction and papillary dermis. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12513
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12513DOI Listing
April 2019
8 Reads

Mechanisms of anionic surfactant penetration into human skin: Investigating monomer, micelle and submicellar aggregate penetration theories.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb 22;41(1):55-66. Epub 2019 Feb 22.

James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy, University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, Ohio, 45267-0004, USA.

Objective: Once penetrated into the stratum corneum, anionic surfactants bind to and denature stratum corneum proteins as well as intercalate into and extract intercellular lipids. With repeated exposures, this leads to skin dryness and irritation, compromising barrier function and skin health. The mechanisms of anionic surfactant penetration into the skin, however, are still widely debated. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12511
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12511DOI Listing
February 2019
27 Reads

Editorial.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec;40(6):535

International Journal of Cosmetic Science.

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12508DOI Listing
December 2018
1 Read

Exploring some characteristics (density, anagen ratio, growth rate) of human body hairs. Variations with skin sites, gender and ethnics.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb 17;41(1):46-54. Epub 2019 Jan 17.

L'Oréal Research and Innovation, 11-13 Rue Dora Maar, 93400, Saint-Ouen, France.

Objective: To determine, in vivo, the density, growth rate and percentage of anagen phase follicles of body hairs present on five different skin sites (axilla, cheek, chin, leg, upper-lip) of women and men from four different ethnics (African, Caucasian, Chinese, North African). The same characteristics of terminal hairs from the nape of all subjects were recorded as references.

Methods: The photo-trichogram technique was used on all skin sites (of different sizes) at variable times (2 or 3 days) post shaving of small skin areas (a few cm ). Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12510DOI Listing
February 2019
11 Reads

Physical characterization of the hair of Mexican women.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb 6;41(1):36-45. Epub 2019 Feb 6.

L'Oréal, Research & Innovation, Clark, NJ, USA.

Hairs collected from 257 Mexican women, residing in Mexico City, were characterized by instrumental measurements for comparison to more-commonly reported Caucasian, Asian and African hairs. Subjects were subdivided into five age groups and their hairs were characterized by fibre dimension, shape and tensile strength. Results show that Mexican hair appears to be intermediate of Asian and Caucasian hair in diameter and cross-sectional ellipticity. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12509DOI Listing
February 2019
1 Read

A highly resistant structure between the cuticle and the cortex of human hair. II. CARB, a penetration barrier.

Authors:
Toshie Takahashi

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb 22;41(1):28-35. Epub 2019 Feb 22.

R&D - Development Research, Kao Corporation, 2-1-3, Bunka, Sumida-ku, Tokyo, 131-8501, Japan.

Objective: We previously reported that a chemically resistant structure is present at the interface between the cuticle and the cortex of human hair. The goal of this study was to identify the position of that structure and to clarify its barrier ability.

Methods: Untreated, partially and completely decuticled hair fibres were characterized. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12507DOI Listing
February 2019
1 Read
1.451 Impact Factor

Assessing changes in some facial signs of fatigue in Chinese women, induced by a single working day.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb 4;41(1):21-27. Epub 2019 Feb 4.

Eurosyn, Villebon-sur-Yvette, France.

Background: The impacts of physical fatigue upon some facial signs, induced by a whole day work, have been previously described on Caucasian women. This study aimed at assessing those possibly experienced by Chinese working women under comparable conditions.

Material And Methods: Standard photographs of 60 Chinese women working in the same company (aged 20-40 years) were taken at three occasions during their working day (just before, at 4 and 8 h). Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12506DOI Listing
February 2019
2 Reads

Inhibitory effects of Sanguisorba officinalis root extract on HYBID (KIAA1199)-mediated hyaluronan degradation and skin wrinkling.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb 9;41(1):12-20. Epub 2019 Jan 9.

Biological Science Research, Kao Corporation, 3-28, 5-chome, Kotobuki-cho, Odawara-shi, Kanagawa, 250-0002, Japan.

Objectives: Hyaluronan (HA), an important constituent of extracellular matrix in the skin, has many biological activities such as hydration that contributes to firmness and bounciness of the skin. We have reported that reduction in HA in the papillary dermis and over-expression of HYBID (HYaluronan Binding protein Involved in hyaluronan Depolymerization, alias KIAA1199 or CEMIP), a key molecule for HA degradation in skin fibroblasts, are implicated in facial skin wrinkling in Japanese and Caucasian women. However, little or no information is available for substances which inhibit the HYBID-mediated HA degradation. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12505DOI Listing
February 2019
2 Reads

3D-printed Franz type diffusion cells.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec;40(6):604-609

UCL School of Pharmacy, 29-39 Brunswick Square, London, WC1N 1AX, UK.

Objective: Franz cells are routinely used to measure in vitro skin permeation of actives and must be inert to the permeant under study. The aim of the present work was to develop and manufacture transparent Franz-type diffusion cells using 3D printing. Printouts were then tested using a range of model active compounds. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12504DOI Listing
December 2018
13 Reads

Sex-related differences in response to zinc pyrithione shampoo vs. non-anti-dandruff shampoo.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec;40(6):583-588

Unilever Research and Development Centre Shanghai, 66 LinXin Road, Changning District, 200335, Shanghai, China.

Objective: Sex-related differences in skin properties may be expected to impact dandruff formation and treatment. A meta-analysis approach was undertaken to investigate potential differences between males and females in response to zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) treatment vs. non-anti-dandruff (AD) shampoo. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12501
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12501DOI Listing
December 2018
27 Reads

Spectroscopy as a tool to evaluate hair damage and protection.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec 11;40(6):596-603. Epub 2018 Dec 11.

Departamento de Bioquímica, Instituto de Química - Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, Brasil.

Objective: Methods that can be used to analyse hair damage and to support a claim of hair protection are important for the cosmetic industry. There are many approaches available, but they are usually laborious and expensive. The researchers propose a simple fluorescence method that is based upon the emissive properties of damaged hair. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12503
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12503DOI Listing
December 2018
14 Reads

Photoprotection against visible light-induced pigmentation.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec;40(6):589-595

Avon Products, Inc., Suffern, New York, USA.

Objective: This paper presents in vivo an in vitro studies demonstrating the induction of pigmentation in human skin by visible light which can be blocked by using formulation containing the correct amount of yellow iron oxide (YIO).

Methods: An in vitro absorption method was developed to determine the protection provided by a test formulation containing 4.5% YIO using an IPD UVA-VIS action spectrum. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12502
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12502DOI Listing
December 2018
25 Reads

Effect of zein additive on perfume evaporation.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec;40(6):575-582

Département de Biologie, Faculté des Sciences et Techniques, Université de Rouen Normandie, Mont-Saint-Aignan, France.

Objective: Zein is known to have filmogen properties. We wanted to show if a zein film containing eugenol (eugenol as model) would retain the fragrances, slow their evaporation and therefore produce a long-lasting perception of perfume.

Methods: We added corn zein to eugenol in a hydro-alcoholic solution to form a film in vitro and at the surface of the human skin. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12500
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12500DOI Listing
December 2018
21 Reads

Cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic lamellar cream formulation on barrier function or the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in randomized proof-of-concept clinical studies.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Feb 22;41(1):1-11. Epub 2019 Feb 22.

proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research, Kiebitzweg 2, Schenefeld/Hamburg, 22869, Germany.

Objective: Two studies were designed to evaluate the potential cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic, niacinamide-containing moisturizing cream for the first time in humans.

Methods: In both studies, healthy women were randomized to use two treatments, one for the left side of the body and one for the right, from three options: the test cream, a positive control or no treatment (use of standard cleanser only). Treatments were applied twice daily for 4 weeks to the face and forearms (Study 1) or the face only (Study 2). Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12499
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12499DOI Listing
February 2019
20 Reads

Influence of the emollient on emulsions containing lamellar liquid crystals: from molecular organization towards applicative properties.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec 29;40(6):565-574. Epub 2018 Nov 29.

Normandie Univ, UNIHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, 76600, Le Havre, France.

Objective: The sensory perception of cosmetic emulsions is complex as it is governed by an important number of parameters like the choice of raw materials, their interactions, the structural organisation of the system, etc. The aim of the present work was to go further in the interpretation of the emollient-surfactant interactions, towards the emulsions applicative properties. For this purpose, two systems containing liquid crystals of the lamellar type were formulated, differing only in the selected emollient. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12498
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12498DOI Listing
December 2018
3 Reads

"Green" UV-LED gel nail polishes from bio-based materials.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec 6;40(6):555-564. Epub 2018 Dec 6.

Coatings Research Institute, Eastern Michigan University, Ypsilanti, MI, USA.

Objective: Gel nail polishes represent an advanced class of nail polishes, with the ability to cure under ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and consequently demonstrate improved properties and greater durability compared to conventional nail polishes. Most gel nail polishes available today are based on petrochemical resources, making them unsustainable. Bio-based materials are excellent renewable resources, with high potential for meeting final-product performance, cost, and environmental needs. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12497
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12497DOI Listing
December 2018
5 Reads

Lipid organization in xerosis: the key of the problem?

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec 13;40(6):549-554. Epub 2018 Nov 13.

SILAB R&D Department, Brive, France.

Objective: Although xerosis is a common skin disorder among the population, there is no in vivo global study focusing on xerotic skin. Hence, the objective of this study was to characterize xerotic skin from the surface to the molecular scale with in vivo and non-invasive approaches.

Methods: For this purpose, 15 healthy volunteers with normal skin and 19 healthy volunteers with xerotic skin were selected by a dermatologist, thanks to a visual scorage. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12496DOI Listing
December 2018
2 Reads

The physical and chemical disruption of human hair after bleaching - studies by transmission electron microscopy and redox proteomics.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Dec 19;40(6):536-548. Epub 2018 Nov 19.

Food & Bio-based Products, AgResearch, Lincoln Research Centre, Christchurch, New Zealand.

Objective: To understand the structural and chemical effects of cosmetic peroxide bleaching on human hair.

Methods: Human hair was progressively bleached using alkaline peroxide-persulphate treatment. Proteins lost through leaching were examined using amino acid analysis and mass spectrometric sequencing. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12495DOI Listing
December 2018
4 Reads

Efficacy of an agonist of α-MSH, the palmitoyl tetrapeptide-20, in hair pigmentation.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct 8;40(5):516-524. Epub 2018 Oct 8.

ICSN, UPR2301 CNRS, 91198, Gif-sur-Yvette, France.

Objective: Hair greying (i.e., canities) is a component of chronological ageing and occurs regardless of gender or ethnicity. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12494DOI Listing
October 2018
4 Reads

Visualization of zinc pyrithione particles deposited on the scalp from a shampoo by tape-strip sampling and scanning electron microscopy/energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy measurement.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct;40(5):530-533

Analytical-Chemistry Group, Van 't Hoff Institute for Molecular Sciences, University of Amsterdam, Science Park 904, 1098 XH, Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

Objective: Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is widely used as an anti-fungal active in commercial anti-dandruff (AD) shampoos. The AD efficacy of ZnPT is highly dependent on the deposition of ZnPT particles onto the scalp during the process of shampoo application and rinse-off. Since ZnPT materials with different particle sizes and morphologies have different deposition behaviours, the measurement of the actual ZnPT deposition is critical to understand the AD performance delivered by different ZnPT shampoos. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12493
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12493DOI Listing
October 2018
17 Reads

Evaluating age-related changes of some facial signs among men of four different ethnic groups.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct;40(5):502-515

RB Consult, Bievres, France.

Background: The alterations of some facial characteristics, with age, in men of different ethnic groups are a scarcely studied topic.

Objective: To illustrate and grade, among men of four different ethnic descents (Asians, African-Americans, Caucasians, Indians), aged 18-80 year, the changes in the severity of some facial signs occurring with age.

Methods: Digital Photographs (full face, profile, 45°) of 1058 subjects were taken under standard conditions of lightning. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12492DOI Listing
October 2018
3 Reads

Reinforcement of barrier function - skin repair formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct;40(5):494-501

Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, University of Tuebingen, Tuebingen, Germany.

Objective: The aim of the study was to develop formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin in an attempt to repair defective barrier function.

Methods: Physiological cholesterol and linoleic acid were incorporated into basic cream and non-ionic cream to prepare skin repair formulations. Homogeneity and storage stability of the developed creams were examined by polarized light microscopy. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12491DOI Listing
October 2018
3 Reads

Defining and validating a Body Skin Discomfort Index (BSDI).

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct 4;40(5):488-493. Epub 2018 Oct 4.

L'Oréal Research & Innovation, 188 rue Paul Hochart, 94550, Chevilly La Rue, France.

Objective: To understand the drivers of body skin discomfort and to validate a new index to assess its severity. This index should be sensitive enough to capture changes in response to treatment.

Methods: Previous consumer studies suggested seven potential main dimensions behind skin discomfort. Read More

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http://doi.wiley.com/10.1111/ics.12490
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12490DOI Listing
October 2018
27 Reads

Review of Hair Follicle Dermal Papilla cells as in vitro screening model for hair growth.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct 4;40(5):429-450. Epub 2018 Oct 4.

Cell Biology Lab, Dabur Research Foundation, 22, Site IV, Sahibabad, Ghaziabad, Uttar Pradesh, 201010, India.

Hair disorders such as hair loss (alopecia) and androgen dependent, excessive hair growth (hirsutism, hypertrichosis) may impact the social and psychological well-being of an individual. Recent advances in understanding the biology of hair have accelerated the research and development of novel therapeutic and cosmetic hair growth agents. Preclinical models aid in dermocosmetic efficacy testing and claim substantiation of hair growth modulators. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12489DOI Listing
October 2018
6 Reads
1.451 Impact Factor

A severe chronic outdoor urban pollution alters some facial aging signs in Chinese women. A tale of two cities.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct 8;40(5):467-481. Epub 2018 Oct 8.

Eurosyn, Villebon-sur-Yvette, France.

Background: The impact of a chronic outdoor urban pollution on skin aging-related facial signs is a poorly referenced topic.

Objective: To assess, through visual grading and referential photographic atlas, possible differences in some facial signs between Chinese women, of comparable ages, living in two close cities very differently exposed to urban pollution.

Methods: The faces of two cohorts of 204 Chinese women (2 × 102) of same age-groups (25-45 years), living in Baoding (a highly polluted city) and Dalian (a less polluted city), for at least 15 years, have been analyzed. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12487DOI Listing
October 2018
1 Read

Mapping, in vivo, the uniformity of two skin properties alongside the human face by a 3D virtual approach.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct;40(5):482-487

L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Chevilly Larue, France.

Objective: To determine the homogeneity in the distribution of two cutaneous functions (hydration and elasticity) along the entire human face.

Material And Methods: The half faces (right or left, randomly chosen) of two groups of Caucasian women were measured on 24 different small sites (elasticity) and 41 others (hydration), by instruments of small-sized probes (Cutometer and Corneometer , respectively). Hydration of the face was recorded at different times (up to 24 h), post application of a highly hydrating product. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12488DOI Listing
October 2018
10 Reads

Measuring the frequency of consumer hair combing and magnitude of combing forces on individual hairs in a tress and the implications for product evaluation and claims substantiation.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct 1;40(5):461-466. Epub 2018 Oct 1.

Cider Solutions Ltd. Chilworth, Surrey, GU48RR, U.K.

Objectives: It is commonly assumed that, due to the long growth cycle of hair, multi-cycle combing, and strength and fatigue testing using thousands of cycles is relevant for product evaluation and claim substantiation. The objective was to assess the frequency and magnitude of combing forces on individual hairs against a hypothesis that fibres on a consumer's head rarely experience significant loads during routine combing.

Methods: Single fibres were removed from a tress, attached to a load cell and replaced in the tress. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12485DOI Listing
October 2018
4 Reads

Use of LC-MS analysis to elucidate by-products of niacinamide transformation following in vitro skin permeation studies.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Oct 8;40(5):525-529. Epub 2018 Oct 8.

UCL School of Pharmacy, 29-39 Brunswick Square, London, WC1N 1AX, UK.

Objective: To explore and elucidate the formation of niacinamide (NIA) by-products during in vitro skin permeation studies using liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis.

Methods: Porcine skin permeation studies of various NIA formulations were conducted using Franz diffusion cells for a period of 24 hours. NIA by-products were identified by LC, extracted and further qualitatively analysed by LC-MS. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12486DOI Listing
October 2018
3 Reads

Keratin-based particles for protection and restoration of hair properties.

Int J Cosmet Sci 2018 Aug 28;40(4):408-419. Epub 2018 Aug 28.

CEB-Centre of Biological Engineering, University of Minho, Campus of Gualtar, 4710-057, Braga, Portugal.

Objective: Human hair is an element with unquestionable relevance in society both for women and men. Therefore, it is of great importance to develop new cosmetic products for hair care capable to restore and improve hair's characteristics. Here, we explore the potential of keratin-based particles in the protection and recovery of hair mechanical properties and thermal stability. Read More

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http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12483DOI Listing
August 2018
3 Reads