Publications by authors named "Tércio Elyan Azevedo Martins"

2 Publications

  • Page 1 of 1

Potential use of essential oils in cosmetic and dermatological hair products: A review.

J Cosmet Dermatol 2021 Jun 15. Epub 2021 Jun 15.

Institute of Physics, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil.

Background: Essential oils have great interest among the increasing demand for herbal cosmetics in the market. They are natural sources of biologically active ingredients due to the wide application of such compounds as well as their particular chemical composition. Several researches have evaluated the effectiveness of these bioactive ingredients for use in cosmeceuticals, mainly in both hair scalp and shaft hair damage repair. Thus, the amounts and their associations define the properties of these compositions with interest for hair cosmetic use, such as antioxidant, inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities. Because they are complex compounds, their actions on the skin, hair scalp, and shaft are not yet fully understood.

Aims: The purpose of this review is to highlight the relevant researches and findings on essential oils in hair care.

Methods: In order to achieve this objective, the present work comprises an updated bibliographic review related to essential oils used in hair care.

Results: It was possible to observe that cosmeceuticals containing essential oils applied to the scalp are preferable for topical activity. Also, it was noticed that there are few reports regarding their use in hair shaft. However, it was found that some oils are used to intensify the brightness and fix the hair color.

Conclusions: This work demonstrated that the use of essential oils in both cosmetic products (industrial application) and those associated with oils carriers (as individual protocols) may lead to satisfactory results in the treatment of some scalp dysfunctions.
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June 2021

Analytical tools for urocanic acid determination in human samples: A review.

J Sep Sci 2021 Jan 3;44(1):438-447. Epub 2020 Nov 3.

Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil.

Urocanic acid is a chromophore found in the skin that has been identified as an important immunosuppressant and carcinogenesis mediator through its photoisomerization from trans to cis form induced by ultraviolet radiation. Research on analytical methods that explore urocanic acid isomerization is indispensable to fully understand the deleterious effects mediated by this biomarker. In this context, the current relevant analytical methods for determination of these isomers in human samples are summarized in this review. The methods presented here are applicable to human samples collected by noninvasive methods (or minimally invasive), encompassing an array of analytical techniques, including high-performance capillary electrophoresis, confocal Raman spectroscopy, gas chromatography, high-performance liquid chromatography, and mass spectrometry, among others. Developed high-performance liquid chromatography methods have proven to be advantageous, allowing noninvasive collections for in vivo analysis and the confocal Raman, specially, for real-time analysis. Among all these methods, high-performance liquid chromatography is the most investigated one with mass spectrometry or ultraviolet detector, and the mass spectrometry detector being the most studied in the last years, demonstrating high sensitivity, very low detection limits, and accurate identification, especially for clinical investigations.
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January 2021